咖啡樹和咖啡食用的起源地公認在非洲,其具體地區說法不壹,但多數人認為在東非的文明古國埃塞俄比亞。關於咖啡起源的時間則莫衷壹是。
在咖啡的發現、起源和利用史上,有壹個神奇的故事非常流行,我以為也較為符合實情。很久很久以前,埃塞俄比亞西南部咖法(Keffa)地區的牧羊少年卡爾迪(Kaldi)壹次趕羊經過壹片樹林時,他的山羊群啃食路邊大型灌木叢上的紅果子。①卡爾迪無意中發現,山羊吃了紅果子後異常興奮,即使是老山羊也像小山羊壹樣奔跑跳躍。牧羊少年覺得奇怪,便也摘下壹些果實品嘗。結果自己也變得非常興奮、精神,不由得手舞足蹈起來。咖啡(果可食用並能提神)就這樣被人發現了。②人們把這種果子就叫成當地的地名“咖法”(keffa),以後經過長期地傳遞和演變就成了今天的“咖啡”(coffee)。咖啡被發現後人們最初只是采摘野生的果子食用,③後來才慢慢開始人工栽培。在食用方式上,最初是連肉帶核(即咖啡種子—咖啡豆)壹起嚼食,後來進步為把咖啡果泡水或煮水喝。④在用途上,最初主要用於宗教界的宗教活動和醫生治病及病人恢復。埃塞俄比亞—紅海壹帶基督教、猶太教都有,後來還有伊斯蘭教。各種宗教的教士、修士、教徒嚼了咖啡果或喝了咖啡水後,在徹夜進行的宗教法事活動時便很有精神不打瞌睡。病人們嚼了它或喝了它也能恢復壹些精神。
咖啡的食用、采摘漸漸跨過非常狹窄的紅海傳入阿拉伯半島。《中國大百科全書·農業卷·咖啡條》和《中國農業百科全書·農作物卷·咖啡條》說公元前6世紀阿拉伯人已開始栽種咀嚼食用咖啡,但它們沒有例證和文獻出處,不大可信。而且,從社會發展史角度審視,公元前6世紀阿拉伯半島上的阿拉伯人(假如當時已有“阿拉伯人”的話)還處於原始社會的野蠻時代。如果那時他們已有了農耕種植,那也只可能種植椰棗、麥子、瓜菜等糧食、蔬菜、多用途作物,而不可能栽培藥用類、嗜好類、消閑類作物咖啡。因為當時的生產力水平只允許他們種植那些作物,以保證自己少挨餓,生存下去。新版《美國百科全書·咖啡條》認為,公元後6世紀阿拉伯人開始栽種食用(咀嚼)咖啡。⑤有的學者還把栽培利用咖啡的時代地點精確到公元575年在也門開始栽種。⑥我認為公元後6世紀開始栽培咖啡相對較為可信。由此推斷,埃塞俄比亞人發現利用咖啡當在此前好長壹段時期,或者在此前兩三個世紀,即約公元3世紀。公元9—10世紀的阿拉伯醫學家拉吉斯(Rhazes,865—932)在文獻中首次明確提到了咖啡,即記載下有人將幹咖啡果研碎後用水煎服當藥喝
First, coffee origin Coffee-tree and coffee edible origin recognition in Africa, itsconcrete local view not one, but the most people think in EastAfrica's ancient nation Ethiopia. Time origins which about the coffeethen unable to agree. In in the coffee discovery, the origin and the use history, somemysterious story is extremely popular, I thought also conforms to thetruth. Before very long very long time, the Ethiopian north west 咖law (Keffa) the area tends sheep young Cull to enlighten (Kaldi) timeto catch up with when the sheep passes through woods, his mountainflock of sheep gnaws on the food roadside large-scale shrubbery thered fruit. (1) Cull enlightens accidentally discovered that, after thegoat ate the red fruit exceptionally to be excited, even if were theold goat also likes the small goat equally to run jumps. Tends sheepthe youth to think strangely, then also takes off some fruits totaste. Result also change extremely excitedly, the spirit, cannot helpbut dances with joy. The coffee (fruit might edible and can stimulate)on is discovered like this by the person. (2) The people are calledthe locality the geographic name this kind of fruit "咖 the law"(keffa), later passes through for a long time the transmission and theevolution has become today "the coffee" (coffee). The coffee wasdiscovered the posterity only are at first pick the wild fruit edible,(3) afterwards only then slowly started artificially to cultivate. Inthe edible way, is at first Lian Roudai the nucleus (namely coffeeseed - coffee bean) chews the food together, afterwards progressed forsoaks in water the coffee fruit or 煮水 drinks. (4) In the use,mainly uses in at first religious circles' religious activities anddoctor treats an illness and the patient restores. Area the Ethiopian- red sea Christianity, the Judaism all have, afterwards also had theIslamism. After each kind of religious priest, the member of areligious order, the believer has chewed the coffee fruit or has drunkthe coffee water, in carries on all night when religious Buddhistceremony activity then very much has the spirit not to hit sleepily.The patients have chewed it or drink it also to be able to restoresome spirits. The coffee edible, picks gradually bridged over extremely narrow redsea to spread to the Arabian Peninsula. "Chinese Big EncyclopediaAgriculture Volume Coffee Strip" and "Chinese Agriculture EncyclopediaCrops Volume Coffee Strip" said the B.C.E. 6 centuries Arabs startedto plant chew the edible coffee, but they do not have the illustrationand the literature source, is not greatly credible. Moreover,carefully examined from the social development history angle, B.C.E.in 6 centuries Arabian Peninsula Arabs (at that time if had "Arab"speech) also is in primitive society the barbarism. If at that timethey had the agriculture to plough the planter, that also onlypossibly plants 椰棗, grain, the vegetables, the multipurpose cropsand so on wheat, melon vegetable, but is impossible to cultivate kind,the hobby class for medicinal purposes, whiles away the time the kindof crops coffee. Because then productive forces level only allowedthem to plant these crops, guaranteed oneself little starved, thesurvival got down. New edition "American Encyclopedia Coffee Strip"believed that, A.D. the latter 6 centuries Arab starts to plant edible(chews) the coffee. (5) Some scholars also precisely start thecultivation using the coffee time place until the A.D. 575 years inYemen to plant. (6) I thought the A.D. latter 6 centuries startrelatively to cultivate the coffee to be credible. From this theinference, the Ethiopian discovered using the coffee works as inbefore this good long section of times, or in before this 23centuries, namely approximately A.D. 3 centuries. A.D. 9 - 10centuries Arabic medical scientists pull lucky Si (Rhazes, 865 - 932)explicitly mentioned for the first time in the literature the coffee,after namely under the record some people will do the coffee fruit togrind the water used to fry the clothing when the medicine will drink
三、咖啡在全世界的傳播和咖啡館文化
歐洲人和其他國家的人接觸到咖啡飲料後,有的人便很快喜歡上了。商人和資產者更垂涎於咖啡帶來的效益和利潤。但是在地理大發現時代(15世紀末—17世紀末),歐洲或其他任何帝國對奧斯曼土耳其還不具有軍事優勢(須知土耳其甚至在1529年和1683年兩次大舉圍攻維也納)。還無法采取軍事暴力手段來獲取咖啡苗(諸如擊敗土軍,占領某地,搶走當地的咖啡樹和咖啡果)。面對土耳其的嚴厲控制政策,既不能合法進口,又無力武裝搶奪;於是人們只好設法去“偷”,從而演繹出咖啡外傳的諸多有趣故事。1616年,荷蘭人從也門摩卡港躲過土耳其嚴格檢查,偷運出壹株咖啡樹苗。②他們駕船走葡萄牙人開辟的新航路經阿拉伯海、印度洋、大西洋、英吉利海峽繞道回國。但歐洲的氣候水土不適合熱帶亞熱帶植物咖啡樹的生長,荷蘭人只好把它作為實驗樹栽培在暖房裏。1656年荷蘭人侵入錫蘭(斯裏蘭卡)。1658年荷蘭人就在錫蘭島上進行咖啡樹苗的大田種植並獲成功。③1603年荷蘭人在印尼爪哇島上建立起第壹個商站壹殖民據點,1619年荷蘭人侵占雅加達,並把它改名為巴達維亞。1696年荷蘭人從印度西南部沿海的馬拉巴爾(Malabar)地區運進咖啡樹苗和種子把它們栽種在印尼爪哇巴達維亞的種植園。經過壹點波折後終獲成功,並很快獲益贏利。④
不過印度西南部的咖啡林卻不是荷蘭人或其他西歐人傳去的,而是由當地的壹位叫巴巴·布丹(Baba Budan)的人於17世紀30年代傳入的。作為壹個虔誠的穆斯林,巴巴·布丹去過伊教的聖城麥加朝聖。返回時他把七粒能發芽的咖啡豆(種子)緊貼在肚皮上,躲過了土耳其人的檢查,成功地“偷”回了他在印度西南部的家鄉。從此,咖啡開始在南亞生根栽培了。⑤
綜上可知,東非埃塞俄比亞人民發現了咖啡,阿拉伯人民栽培了咖啡,中國人民促進了咖啡從神飲藥飲轉變為大眾飲料,土耳其人民發明了咖啡最正宗最科學的飲用法,南亞人民也參與了傳播咖啡。可見,咖啡能成為世界三大飲料之壹,非、亞、歐洲人民都為之做出了貢獻。不過,對咖啡最鐘愛,把咖啡館(文化)發展得最繁榮,把咖啡傳播得最遠的是歐洲人民。
1615年威尼斯商人把進口的咖啡豆運回威尼斯開設咖啡館經營。[3](P11)這大概是歐洲的第壹家咖啡館。不過,咖啡館老板使用的是進口的土耳其咖啡而非在意大利種出來的咖啡。1650年,英國牛津出現英國的首家咖啡館,1652年,倫敦出現咖啡館。[4](n78-179)1643年,巴黎開設了首家咖啡館,1650年,馬賽也開設了咖啡館……。[4](P161)1684年,維也納出現首家咖啡館。[4](P52)到17世紀末18世紀初,咖啡館在歐洲特別是西歐各大中小城市已雨後春筍般出現,迅速普及。
從此歐洲(包括後來的北美)的社會生活和風俗習慣中多了喝咖啡這項內容,街頭多了咖啡館這道風景線。人們在咖啡館裏休閑,聊天,看簡易的文藝表演,談生意,議論國是,吃零食,談情說愛,咖啡館成了與中國茶館媲美的壹種西式休閑場所。壹些文人、作家、藝術家在泡咖啡館時構思了自己的作品;壹些政客在咖啡館裏活動,壹些罪犯在咖啡館裏策劃犯罪,壹些青樓女子也在咖啡館裏拉客……咖啡館成了歐美人民的重要社交場所。
Third, coffee in world dissemination and cafe culture After the European and other national people contact the coffeedrink, some people then very quickly liked. The merchant and theproperty drool the benefit and the profit which brings to the coffee.But in the geography big discovery time (15 century's ends - 17century's ends), Europe or other any empires did not have the militarysuperiority to the Osman Turkey (notice Turkey even and in 1683 two ona large scale besieges Vienna in 1529). Also is unable to adopt themilitary violence method to gain the coffee seedling (such as todefeat 土軍, seizes some place, snatches locality coffee-tree andcoffee fruit). Facing Turkey's severe control policy, both cannotlegitimately import, and incapably arms robs; Thereupon the peoplehave to try "to steal", thus deducts the coffee unauthorized biographymany interesting stories. In 1616, the Dutch hid Turkey from theYemenese 摩卡port strictly to inspect, smuggle a coffee seedling.(2) They harness the ship to walk the Portugese opening new routeafter the Arabic sea, Indian Ocean, Atlantic, the English Channeldetour to return to homeland. But Europe's climate water and soil doesnot suit the tropics subtropics plant coffee-tree the growth, theDutch has to take it the experimental tree cultivation in thegreenhouse. In 1656 the Dutch invaded Sri Lanka (Sri Lanka). In 1658the Dutch on carried on the coffee seedling on the Sri Lankan islandthe big field planter and attains successfully. (3) In 1603 the Dutchestablished the first business on the Indonesian Java island to standas soon as colonizes the foothold, in 1619 the Dutch invaded Jakarta,and changed name it as 巴達維亞. In 1696 the Dutch (Malabar) thearea transported the coffee seedling and the seed from Indian northwest coast Malabar plants them in the Indonesian Java 巴達維亞plantation. The end attains successfully after twists and turns, andvery quickly obtains benefits the profit. (4) But the Indian north west coffee forest actually is not the Dutch orother westerners passes on, but is calls anxiously the bhutan (BabaBudan) by local the person spreads to the 17th century 30's. As areverent Muslim religion, anxiously the bhutan goes to holy city Meccawhich Iraq teaches to go on a pilgrimage. Returns when he the coffeebean which can germinate seven grains (seed) tightly pastes on thebelly, has hidden Turk's inspection, the successful place "stole" hasreturned to him in the Indian north west hometown. From this time on,the coffee started in the South Asia to take root to cultivate. (5) In the synthesis may know, the East Africa Ethiopia people haddiscovered the coffee, the Arabic people cultivated the coffee, theChinese people promoted the coffee to drink the medicine from the godto drink transform into the populace drink, the Turkish peoplescientifically invent the coffee most orthodox school to drink theusage, the South Asia people also participated in the disseminationcoffee. Obviously, the coffee can become world one of three big drink,non-, Asian, the European people have all made the contribution forit. But, to the coffee most cherish, (culture) develops the cafeprosperously, disseminates far the coffee is the European people. In 1615 the Venetian merchant shipped back the import coffee beanVenice to open the cafe management. [ 3 ] (P11) this probably isEurope's first cafe. But, cafe boss uses is the import Turkish coffeebut non- the coffee which plants in Italy comes out. In 1650, theEnglish Oxford appeared English the first cafe, in 1652, Londonappeared the cafe. [ 4 ] (n78-179) in 1643, Paris has opened the firstcafe, in 1650, Marseilles has also opened the cafe... ... . [ 4 ](P161) in 1684, Vienna appeared the first cafe. [ 4 ] (P52) to 17century's ends the beginning of 18th century, the cafe in Europespecially was the Western Europe each major and medium small cityalready mushroom growth appearance, rapid popularization. From this time on Europe (including afterwards North America) in thesocial life and the manners and customs were many has drunk coffeethis content, the street corner many cafes this scenery line. Thepeople in the cafe the leisure, chat, looked the simple theatricalperformance, discusses business, discussed the country is, eats thebetween-meal snack, talks love, the cafe has become one kind ofwestern-style leisure place which compares favorably with with theChinese teahouse. Some writers, the writer, the artist when soaked thecafe has formed in one's mind own work; Some politicians move in thecafe, some criminals plan the crime in the cafe, some brothel femalesalso draw in customers in the cafe... ... The cafe has become theEuropean and American people's important public relations place.
According to 16th century Arabic literature "Coffee Origin" records,in 13 centuries the leaf has a Muslim 阿訇 Austria Masurium you(Sheikh Omar) to convict, 摩卡(Mocha) exiles from Yemen to Ou Saba.On the way, he saw is eating on the roadside tree's red fruit to abird in merrily the calligraphy stroke, then also tried to pick some煮水 has drunk. The small fruit has one kind of marvelous flavor,after drank has been sleepy wearily, eliminates immediately. AustriaMasurium you thereupon drink the coffee fruit the usage instruction togive some big at the beginning of sickness the person. After AustriaMasurium will send into exile the expiration to return in future摩卡then and drinks the coffee fruit the usage to disseminate. (1)Austria Masurium you discovered the coffee the fable is extremelypopular in the Arabic area, I think this fable Yu Shizhuo severalpoints: First, Austria Masurium you are possibly the public figurewhich independent rediscovers the edible wild coffee. He possiblydiscovered the different wild species as soon as to plant 培種.Already verified, the coffee had the different wild species anddevelops in this foundation plants 培種, if 小果 - the Arabiccoffee (Coffea arabica), center the fruit - went against the basketgirl coffee (C. canephora), big fruit - Liberia coffee (C. 1iberica);[ 1 ] (P258-259) two, Austria Masurium you possibly are the Arabicarea most early attempt one of planter coffee public figures; Third,Austria Masurium you are promote the coffee edible and one ofcultivation public figures. We knew, when Arabic area middle ages the agriculture quite is alsodeveloped, massively plants the multipurpose crops 椰棗 and othercrops. The Arab in knows the coffee to be possible edible to drinkafter and has the marvelous effect not to carry on the manualcultivation then with difficulty to persuade by reasoning. Therefore Iextrapolated, 6 since the probably centuries have been thenfragmentary in the Yemenese area, occasionally watch, the researchcultivation coffee, you the time namely develop from Austria Masuriumfrom the l3 century for the big field cultivate. In 1454, Yemen'sMuslim dynasty officially proclaimed the command allows to drink withand plants the coffee. (2) This indicated the coffee the planteredible before this had the quite long section of times, and hasachieved the certain scale. From this time on, the coffee and drank inthe length and breadth Arabic area widely planter with
古代非洲埃塞俄比亞人發現了咖啡,中世紀阿拉伯人栽培了咖啡。中世紀晚期,中國人促進了咖啡從神飲藥飲轉變為大眾休閑飲料,土耳其人發明了咖啡正宗科學的飲用法,印度人參與了傳播咖啡。在地理大發現時代(15世紀末至17世紀末),歐洲人把咖啡傳遍全世界;此後又將咖啡館文化發展得最繁榮。所以非、亞、歐人民都為咖啡發展為今日世界的三大飲料之壹做出了貢獻。晚清咖啡傳入我國,民國在華已站穩腳跟。改革開放以來咖啡飲用開始在中國流行,並在逐步形成自己的咖啡文化。
Ancient times the African Ethiopians had discovered the coffee, themiddle ages Arab has cultivated the coffee. The middle ages laterperiod, the Chinese promoted the coffee to drink the medicine from thegod to drink transforms into the populace leisure drink, the Turkinvents the coffee orthodox school science to drink the usage, theIndian participated in the dissemination coffee. In the geography bigdiscovery time (15 century's ends to 17 century's ends), the Europeanspread over the coffee the world; Hereafter develops the cafe cultureprosperously. Therefore non-, Asian, the European people all have madethe contribution for the coffee development for today world one ofthree big drink. The late clear coffee spreads to our country,Republic of China stands firm in Hua Yi. Since the reform and openpolicy the coffee has drunk with starts to be popular in China, andgradually is forming own coffee culture.